Monday, May 1, 2017

Council of Kadıköy: The Story of Ancient Chalcedon


For my first blogpost in a long while, I'd like to share a little information about how ancient Istanbul came to be, plus focus a little on the ancient roots of my favorite neighborhood in town:



Kadıköy. 

A modern, crowded but cozy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul.  The hippest coffee shops, quality music and art, wonderful and romantic sea side perfect for a Saturday afternoon bike ride....

Be careful with those balloon games, though... 


And as I learned recently, the site of ancient Chalcedon.

Let's take a trip back a couple thousand years.
Chalcedon, right across from Byzantium (Istanbul)

Buried beneath the Starbucks, the ATM machines, the intoxicating smell of döner, and the crowds is the spirit of what was once an old settlement, situated directly across the Bosporus Strait from Byzantium, a pivotal port city of the Ancient Greek and Roman world that in time became Constantinople and eventually Istanbul. Though not visible today, leveled and replaced by the modern world, this exact spot was home to a maritime establishment that, despite its neighbors’ strength, reputation and glory, developed a few claims to fame of its own. 

We'll talk about this in a minute.


Notice how the peninsula juts out and invites you.
Founded just a generation before Byzantium, ancient Chalcedon became a new homeland for the people of an ancient city-state called Megara. Its position on the map, with its fertile lands, gave it prominence, yet at the same time inhibited its potential. It was awkwardly tucked in a position unfavorable for snatching fish or traders’ boats. As I learned from a local and from some researching, ancient visitors and conquerors nicknamed this area the “Land of the Blind,” a name originating from a Persian general. As the folklore goes, the ancient settlers of this site must have been blind if they were seriously willing to make their city here over the much more advantageous tract of land on the other side of the water. Milking an opportunity from the negligence (or perhaps blindness) of the Chalcedonians, ancient settlers of Greek origin unpacked their bags at Byzantium, which in the following years proved to be a good idea, as it developed into a world-renowned trading hub and eventually an economic, political and religious metropolitan powerhouse.
Items from Ancient Chalcedon, Istanbul Archaeological Museum

Statue found in this location,
Istanbul Archaeological
Museum
The geographical location and neighborhood of Chalcedon greatly helped determine its history.  

Over the years, Chalcedon gained its wealth from trade, by levying tolls and enforcing customs regulations. It also was friendly with Byzantium, proven by its shared coins and joint military operations. Chalcedon was even a member of the famous Delian League of Ancient Greece, an elite alliance of Greek city states including Athens and Sparta.  

However, you could consider Chalcedon living in the shadow of its more popular and successful mate across the water, as Byzantium’s peninsula and superior position on the Bosporus gave boats a much easier port to land in.

He won a Game of Thrones.
Additionally, Chalcedon was just south of ancient Chrysopolis (modern Üsküdar, where I live!). Between these spots, in an epic battle, the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great defeated his partner-turned-political adversary Licinius once and for all, cementing his status as the undisputed Emperor of Rome, 323 CE. Little did I know that my backyard was a critical battlefield this whole time. Years after this battle, Constantine declared Byzantium the new capital of the Eastern Roman Empire:  Constantinople, the Second, or “New,” Rome, was christened on 11 May 330.



Regions of Asia Minor in ancient times. Note "Istanbul," which
at the time was Byzantium and, across the water, Chalcedon.
This land area provides a window for travel
between the East and the West, as you can see.
Chalcedon was certainly able to reap benefits of being next to this city. Imagine travelers, merchants and messengers moving by land from the East, which housed powerful and important cities in the region, such as ancient Nicomedia, Antioch, Damascus and Jerusalem. In order to get to Byzantium, the thriving trading capital of the region, they often passed through Chalcedon before sailing over.  For instance, as letters of the Bible were being sent across Asia Minor, the messenger carrying Peter’s first letter most likely hit Chalcedon. The letter itself is addressed to multiple regions in modern Turkey, including Bithynia, the region that contained Chalcedon, Byzantium and Chrysopolis. 

Getting the word out.
Eventually, Chalcedon became a suburb of the Empire’s new capital, what we popularly know as "Constantinople." 


Where I received my Catholic upbringing
and education. Still using the knowledge I
gained here!
Chalcedon is most famous for its religious significance. I first learned about Chalcedon in Middle School; attending a Catholic school, we learned about the numerous councils the early Catholic Church held to discuss matters of faith, as well as identify and condemn heresies. These 7 councils took place in Anatolia (the name for the Asian part of Turkey).











When I came to Istanbul and noticed the word “Chalcedon” in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, as well as the inscription (Turkish name for it) on the streets of my favorite modern neighborhood, my jaw dropped, having no idea that what I learned so long ago in school was literally on, under and around me.
In the central square of modern Kadıköy

Persecution of St. Euphemia in Chalcedon
Of course, the Greek city-states and the succeeding Roman Empire followed polytheistic religions, with many gods and cults. Chalcedon itself had numerous temples dedicated to gods from Apollo to Aphrodite. Once the monotheistic Christianity began spreading throughout the Roman Empire, the Roman state sought to wipe out this threat; for instance, the Roman Emperor Nero notably burned down Rome in 64 CE and blamed the Christians, forcing many to their deaths. Programs of state-sponsored persecution would continue over 200 years into the future. Emperor Diocletian, who notoriously split the Empire into East and West and made a capital in ancient Nicomedia (modern Izmit, Turkey), sponsored a great purge of Christian believers in the early 300s, including the martyrdom of St. Euphemia in Chalcedon. This 15-year-old girl from Chalcedon was tortured on a wheel and fed to the lions because she refused to renounce her faith in Christ. 

Representation of the Edict
Now shortly after Euphemia’s death, but years before founding Constantinople, Emperor Constantine took the throne, defeating political adversaries in modern Italy. Prior to an important battle, he famously had a vision, one of a cross figure, which he forced all of his army to place on their shields. Emerging victorious in the battle, he interpreted his triumph as a sign to defend Christianity, culminating in the 313 Edict of Milan, which legalized Christianity throughout the Empire. When Constantine declared his city in 330, he intended to found it as a Christian city. 

Constantine presenting the city to Christ
and the Virgin Mary, Hagia Sophia
From now on, his new city was the capital of Christianity in the Eastern Roman Empire. Constantine felt both a political and a faith-based responsibility. To take care of internal disputes and theological questions within the Church organization, several councils were called over the course of his reign and beyond, such as the famous Council of Nicaea in 325; this meeting took place in what is now Iznik, Turkey. This council, the first of the ecumenical councils, led to the Nicene Creed.


Why are these facts relevant to Chalcedon, the capital's neighbor across the street?

Gorgeous representation of Christ in the
Chora Church, Istanbul

In 451 CE, over a century after Constantine, another council was called to answer questions regarding the nature of Jesus Christ, the Savior. Though originally intended to be in Nicaea, Christian bishops changed location to a place closer to the Emperor in Constantinople. They went with Chalcedon. The council occurred in a temple once devoted to Aphrodite, now rededicated to the Chalcedonian martyr from before, St. Euphemia.



Another representation of the Council
The council was the 4th Ecumenical Council, taking place over a month. The major theological issue regarded the nature of Christ. Debating his humanity and his divinity, council leaders came to the conclusion that Christ was fully human and fully Divine; this would be called the Chalcedonian Definition: “Christ is one and the same Christ, Son, Lord, only begotten in two natures, without confusion, without…division, without separation.” Remembering my Catholic school education, this definition was the most important piece of the faith I recall learning. I didn’t realize this dogma was manufactured and confirmed on the land that occupies my home for the last two years.

Furthermore, at this council, the Nicene Creed that we recite today in Catholic masses was prepared here. So if you’ve ever been to a Catholic mass and heard the assembly of the faithful chant in unison, “We believe in one God, the Father, the Almighty,” speech, those very words came directly from ancient Chalcedon, modern Istanbul.

Armenian Church
Chalcedon was eventually destroyed by the Ottomans after their conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Soon after, because it was taken under the wing of courts, the neighborhood became known as “Kadıköy”, as “Kadı” is the word for an Islamic judge in the Ottoman days. Kadıköy also became a neighborhood full of many ethnicities and religious minorities; to this day, one can find multiple churches and even a synagogue. It’s pretty fun to stumble upon Greek, Armenian and Hebrew, plus Arabic and Ottoman Turkish at many mosques, casually on my way to work.  I even catch Latin on occasion. One of the reasons I love this city so much:  so much culture.


Possibly the site of the council, the old cathedral of Chalcedon


Mosque by the water


Synagogue in the neighborhood


Entrance to the Synagogue (Note the Hebrew text above)
In a way, one can still feel Chalcedon’s unique religious significance, now covered and replaced by a hip modern neighborhood.  It certainly blends in with the modern world, from the Burger Kings to the Breaking Bad themed coffee shop. 

Items found from ancient Kadıköy, Istanbul Archaeological Museum 
The Haydarpaşa Train Station, an important terminal for train travel to the Arab World


Nice view of the water at sunset.
I don't expect to find Walter White at a church council anytime soon.

The legacy of Chalcedon remains among us.

Thanks for reading!  

Sources:

Constantine the Great. History Channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deioHlBslEQ (accessed 25 April 2017).

“Council of Chalcedon.” Newadvent.org. http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/03555a.htm. (accessed 29 April 2017).

Istanbul Through the Ages, Istanbul Archeological Museum, Istanbul, Turkey

“The Legend of St. Euphemia.” Inforovinj.com. http://www.inforovinj.com/eng/rovinj/znamenje/legenda-sv-eufemija.asp (accessed 28 April 2017).

Wilson, Mark. “Chalcedon.” In Biblical Turkey: A Guide to the Jewish and Christian Sites of Asia Minor. Pages 370-371. 3rd Edition. Istanbul:  Zero Prodüksiyon Ltd (Ege Yayinları), 2014.

^^This is a fantastic book on the history of Christian and Jewish sites throughout modern Turkey. It's become a personal bible of mine, and contains a myriad of wonderful information.





































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