Kadıköy.
A modern, crowded but cozy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul. The hippest coffee shops, quality music and art, wonderful and romantic sea side perfect for a Saturday afternoon bike ride....
A modern, crowded but cozy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul. The hippest coffee shops, quality music and art, wonderful and romantic sea side perfect for a Saturday afternoon bike ride....
Be careful with those balloon games, though... |
And as I learned recently, the site of ancient Chalcedon.
Buried beneath the Starbucks, the ATM machines, the intoxicating smell of döner, and the
crowds is the spirit of what was once an old settlement, situated directly
across the Bosporus Strait from Byzantium, a pivotal port city of the Ancient Greek
and Roman world that in time became Constantinople and eventually Istanbul. Though not visible today, leveled and replaced by the modern world, this exact spot was home to a maritime establishment that, despite its
neighbors’ strength, reputation and glory, developed a few claims to fame of
its own.
Founded just a generation before Byzantium, ancient
Chalcedon became a new homeland for the people of an ancient city-state called
Megara. Its position on the map, with its fertile lands, gave it prominence,
yet at the same time inhibited its potential. It was awkwardly tucked in a position unfavorable for
snatching fish or traders’ boats. As I learned from a local and from some
researching, ancient visitors and conquerors nicknamed this area the “Land of
the Blind,” a name originating from a Persian general. As the folklore goes,
the ancient settlers of this site must have been blind if they were seriously
willing to make their city here over the much more advantageous tract of land
on the other side of the water. Milking an opportunity from the negligence (or
perhaps blindness) of the Chalcedonians, ancient settlers of Greek origin
unpacked their bags at Byzantium, which in the following years proved to be a
good idea, as it developed into a world-renowned trading hub and eventually an
economic, political and religious metropolitan powerhouse.
We'll talk about this in a minute. |
Notice how the peninsula juts out and invites you. |
Items from Ancient Chalcedon, Istanbul Archaeological Museum |
Statue found in this location, Istanbul Archaeological Museum |
The geographical location and neighborhood of Chalcedon greatly helped determine its history.
Over the years, Chalcedon gained its wealth from trade, by
levying tolls and enforcing customs regulations. It also was friendly with
Byzantium, proven by its shared coins and joint military operations. Chalcedon
was even a member of the famous Delian League of Ancient Greece, an elite alliance of Greek city states including Athens and Sparta.
However, you could consider Chalcedon living in the shadow of its more popular and successful mate across the water, as Byzantium’s peninsula and superior position on the Bosporus gave boats a much easier port to land in.
He won a Game of Thrones. |
Additionally, Chalcedon was just south of ancient
Chrysopolis (modern Üsküdar, where I live!). Between these spots, in an epic battle, the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great defeated his partner-turned-political
adversary Licinius once and for all, cementing his status as the undisputed
Emperor of Rome, 323 CE. Little did I know that my backyard was a critical battlefield
this whole time. Years after this battle, Constantine declared Byzantium
the new capital of the Eastern Roman Empire: Constantinople, the Second, or “New,” Rome, was christened
on 11 May 330.
Chalcedon
was certainly able to reap benefits of being next to this city. Imagine
travelers, merchants and messengers moving by land from the East, which housed powerful and important cities in the region, such as ancient Nicomedia, Antioch, Damascus and Jerusalem. In order to
get to Byzantium, the thriving trading capital of the region, they often passed through Chalcedon before sailing over. For instance, as letters of the Bible
were being sent across Asia Minor, the messenger carrying Peter’s first letter
most likely hit Chalcedon. The letter itself is addressed to
multiple regions in modern Turkey, including Bithynia, the region that
contained Chalcedon, Byzantium and Chrysopolis.
Getting the word out. |
Where I received my Catholic upbringing and education. Still using the knowledge I gained here! |
Chalcedon is most famous for its religious significance. I
first learned about Chalcedon in Middle School; attending a Catholic school, we
learned about the numerous councils the early Catholic Church held to discuss
matters of faith, as well as identify and condemn heresies. These 7 councils
took place in Anatolia (the name for the Asian part of Turkey).
When I came to Istanbul
and noticed the word “Chalcedon” in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, as well as
the inscription (Turkish name for it) on the streets of my favorite modern neighborhood, my jaw
dropped, having no idea that what I learned so long ago in school was literally on, under
and around me.
In the central square of modern Kadıköy |
Persecution of St. Euphemia in Chalcedon |
Representation of the Edict |
Now shortly after Euphemia’s death, but years before founding Constantinople, Emperor Constantine took the
throne, defeating political adversaries in modern Italy. Prior to an important
battle, he famously had a vision, one of a cross figure, which he forced all of
his army to place on their shields. Emerging victorious in the battle, he
interpreted his triumph as a sign to defend Christianity, culminating in the
313 Edict of Milan, which legalized Christianity throughout the Empire. When
Constantine declared his city in 330, he intended to found it as a
Christian city.
Constantine presenting the city to Christ and the Virgin Mary, Hagia Sophia |
From now on, his new city was the
capital of Christianity in the Eastern Roman Empire. Constantine felt both a political and a faith-based responsibility. To take care of
internal disputes and theological questions within the Church organization, several councils were called over
the course of his reign and beyond, such as the famous Council of Nicaea in
325; this meeting took place in what is now Iznik, Turkey. This council, the
first of the ecumenical councils, led to the Nicene Creed.
Why are these facts relevant to Chalcedon, the capital's neighbor across the street?
Gorgeous representation of Christ in the Chora Church, Istanbul |
In 451 CE, over a century after Constantine,
another council was called to answer questions regarding the nature of Jesus
Christ, the Savior. Though originally intended to
be in Nicaea, Christian bishops changed location to a place closer to the
Emperor in Constantinople. They went with Chalcedon. The council occurred in a temple
once devoted to Aphrodite, now rededicated to the Chalcedonian martyr from before, St. Euphemia.
Another representation of the Council |
The council was the 4th Ecumenical Council, taking place over a month. The major theological issue regarded the nature of Christ. Debating his humanity and his divinity, council leaders came to the conclusion that Christ was fully human and fully Divine; this would be called the Chalcedonian Definition: “Christ is one and the same Christ, Son, Lord, only begotten in two natures, without confusion, without…division, without separation.” Remembering my Catholic school education, this definition was the most important piece of the faith I recall learning. I didn’t realize this dogma was manufactured and confirmed on the land that occupies my home for the last two years.
Furthermore, at this council, the Nicene Creed that we
recite today in Catholic masses was prepared here. So if you’ve ever
been to a Catholic mass and heard the assembly of the faithful chant in unison, “We believe
in one God, the Father, the Almighty,” speech, those very words came directly
from ancient Chalcedon, modern Istanbul.
Armenian Church |
Chalcedon was eventually destroyed by the Ottomans after their conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Soon
after, because it was taken under the wing of courts, the neighborhood became
known as “Kadıköy”,
as “Kadı” is the word for an Islamic judge in the Ottoman days.
Kadıköy also became a neighborhood full of many
ethnicities and religious minorities; to this day, one can find multiple
churches and even a synagogue. It’s pretty fun to stumble upon Greek, Armenian
and Hebrew, plus Arabic and Ottoman Turkish at many mosques, casually on my way to work. I even catch Latin on occasion. One of the reasons I love this city so much: so much culture.
Possibly the site of the council, the old cathedral of Chalcedon |
Mosque by the water |
Synagogue in the neighborhood |
Entrance to the Synagogue (Note the Hebrew text above) |
In a way, one can still feel Chalcedon’s unique religious
significance, now covered and replaced by a hip modern neighborhood. It certainly blends in with the modern
world, from the Burger Kings to the Breaking Bad themed coffee shop.
Items found from ancient Kadıköy, Istanbul Archaeological Museum |
The Haydarpaşa Train Station, an important terminal for train travel to the Arab World |
Nice view of the water at sunset. |
I don't expect to find Walter White at a church council anytime soon. |
The legacy of Chalcedon remains among us. |
Sources:
Constantine the Great.
History Channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deioHlBslEQ
(accessed 25 April 2017).
“Council of Chalcedon.” Newadvent.org. http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/03555a.htm.
(accessed 29 April 2017).
Istanbul Through the Ages, Istanbul Archeological Museum,
Istanbul, Turkey
“The Legend of St. Euphemia.” Inforovinj.com. http://www.inforovinj.com/eng/rovinj/znamenje/legenda-sv-eufemija.asp
(accessed 28 April 2017).
Wilson, Mark. “Chalcedon.” In Biblical Turkey: A Guide to the Jewish and Christian Sites of Asia
Minor. Pages 370-371. 3rd Edition. Istanbul: Zero Prodüksiyon Ltd (Ege Yayinları), 2014.
^^This is a fantastic book on the history of Christian and Jewish sites throughout modern Turkey. It's become a personal bible of mine, and contains a myriad of wonderful information.
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