The New View: A History Buff's Dream House

The Panorama View

Balcony.

Our living room

Every couple dreams of their first home together. After years of dorms, roommates and common areas, finally here we are making that dream a reality:  Eda and I have our own home!  

Sunset

Nighttime Skyline

With the lease and the early fees out of the way, we’re at this point just tidying the place and decorating. But finally, we’re adults, living as a married couple in our own, independent space.

Clockwise, displays our timeline as a couple, from
the first "I love you" to the tying of the knot

We’ve been talking about this for such a long time, and we’re happy to begin sharing a home together. So far, it’s mainly consisted of cleaning, doing laundry, and arguing about how to organize the bookshelves and the cupboards. I hope we make wonderful, lifelong memories in our house, and I hope they’ll involve a combination of movie marathons, dinner next to the balcony, and some nice company.   

There’s something else about our choice of house that makes me tingle inside.  Not just that I’m sharing it with my soulmate and greatest love, but that it’s taking place in tandem with my 2^nd favorite love: Historical Ground (Eda, tarih’den seni daha seviyorum söz veriyorum yaa).

Inside our house, you can already see a collection of historical and cultural souvenirs.

2 Bibles, 2 Arabic Qurans, 2 Books of Mormon. Turkish, English and even Arabic.

No Turkish home is complete without Atatürk, Turkey's
first president. And apparently the Virgin Mary.

As I have repeatedly mentioned, I LOVE living in a place with such tremendous historical value, experience and lessons to teach. It's awesome, being in a pivotal crossroad of civilization and culture, a place that has seen so much and continues to endure all kinds of world-changing encounters.  I often find myself picturing the events that happened here as I walk by their host sites, whether it’s imagining the sound of Justinian’s voice upon first entrance into the Hagia Sophia screaming “Solomon, I have outdone thee!” or the haunting image of Sultan Mehmet’s fleet carrying ships across land in the middle of the night before conquest.  

I have decided to dedicate this post to sharing the view from our new house, a panorama that allows the inquisitive observer to swallow and digest each and every civilization, language and architectural style Istanbul has ever seen and known. From our 3^rd floor view, if you look hard enough, you can catch all of her history, all of her friends, and all of her glory, in each epoch of her life, from her conception to her zenith, from her downfall to her metamorphosis, and from her occupation to her freedom.

The Golden Horn.

Starting all the way to the left is perhaps the most beautiful building in the world, one that in my opinion represents the potential of peace on this Earth, a structure that has stood the test of time, surviving sieges, earthquakes, crusades, a conquest, a dogmatic transformation, and world wars. A wonderful site, the one that inspired me to come to Istanbul in the first place, which upon entry forced me to fly into this magnificent sky mixed with Quranic calligraphy and Christian artistic achievement. An architectural medley that allows Orthodox Christianity and Islam, mixed with some Venetian and Viking markings, to coexist under the same roof and the watchful eye of the modern state…

Tucked in the corner

The Hagia Sophia.

Massive.

At this point, I’ve been to the Hagia Sophia 6 times. I find something new every time, whether it’s a new mosaic, piece of graffiti, or a cool door. Despite being filled with tourists, this building represents all kinds of wonders, for me the greatest being the harmony between two belief systems, two languages and two civilizations. While cliché to admit, I’m more than happy to declare this as my favorite building in the world, because it openly and gracefully displays human achievement and the marriage between passion and purpose. The mosaic of Jesus and Mary amazes me every time, while the colossal Arabic symbols meant to powerfully represent the Prophet Mohammad, his companions and Allah hang alongside the Christian art.

My good friend Elle and I staring at the mirror image of a lovely
mosaic:  Emperor Constantine and Emperor Justinian presenting
the city and the Hagia Sophia, respectively, to Christ.

Our oldest note, written by Eda
masterfully in Arabic. "In the
name of God, the merciful, the
compassionate"

March 2016

This structure is magic to me. It was commissioned by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian in 532 CE, and after 5 years, was completed. It served as the largest cathedral in the Christian world for almost 1000 years, making Constantinople’s skyline. On the Istanbul ferry, I frequently imagine what passing merchants, sailors and ambitious warriors thought when then saw this. In 1453 (see earlier blogpost about the specifics of this), the Ottoman Turks conquered Constantinople under the direction of the young, charismatic and genius Sultan Mehmet II. After breaking down the walls and placing the Ottoman crescent high on the towers, the Ottoman army pillaged and plundered for 3 days, as was custom at the time. They sprinted miles to the other side of the city, to the Hagia Sophia, believing it to contain the city’s greatest treasures. The path they took to get there is literally the view I have from my apartment. As my eyes move from the old city walls (now tied with a bridge and modern highway) southeast towards the Hagia Sophia, I picture the soldiers in my head, screaming, chanting, celebrating their victory and wreaking havoc to claim the spoils of war.

Sultan Mehmet II, 1432-1481

They stormed the cathedral whilst the priests were in Mass. The church housed many women, children and elderly, who had sought refuge while the Byzantine army defended the city. Sultan Mehmet walked into the site, placed some sand in his turban, and an Imam followed to recite the Shehadah: "There is no god but Allah, and Mohammad is his prophet." And now, the hadith, which Mohammad recited over 700 years prior, the prophecy from the last messenger himself, had finally been realized: the beautiful conqueror took Constantinople. That “beautiful” one mentioned happened to be a Turk, a soldier fluent in 7 languages, age 21, who slept with a copy of Alexander the Great’s biography, who from this moment onward was the one to finally breech her walls and take credit for decimating the Roman civilization, which had been hanging by a thread for centuries but maintained a pulse since 753 BC, to tiny pieces. History gave him a new name, and now, to this day, is still known and recognized as Fatih (the Turkish word for Conqueror).

A few days later, Friday prayer was said at the Hagia Sophia, now Ayasofya, which until the 1930s, after the fall of the Ottoman Empire and start of the new Republic of Turkey, was the Ottoman Imperial Mosque. 

Hagia Sophia is also complete with additional makeovers. Against the altar, you’ll notice these massive candlesticks, brought home by Sultan Suleiman from his campaigns in Hungary. He figured these sticks would be a nice touch to the Mosque. Additionally, on the second floor, the Doge of Venice, who was responsible for the debacle we know of as the 4^th Crusade, when the Latin Crusaders of the West sacked Constantinople in 1204 for more or less no logical or apparent reason, lays to rest. This site was made famous recently by Tom Hanks. We even have some Runic graffiti courtesy of Norse Guards who must have been bored during a few church services.

There's a moment he exclaims, "Istanbul!"

The next mosque in the cue.

Moving my eyes west, next in line you’ll notice the Suleimaniye Mosque. I intend to write about this in another post, as this special and holy mosque is not only significant to the life and appearance of this dear city, but also has a rather deep and personal place in my heart, as to my new roommate and I, it represents the patience and commitment we share for each other. In short, this mosque was designed by the greatest Ottoman architect, Mimar Sinan, for the greatest Sultan at the apex of the Empire’s time. Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (the Lawgiver to Turkish folk) commissioned this mosque, on one of Istanbul’s 7 hills, to overlook the city. To this day, it stands as the largest mosque in town, and up close, it’s stunning and contains a massive campus with a beautiful view.

The view from Suleimaniye with Mom and Big Bro, May 2015

January 2016

The mosques at night from
our balcony.

His mosque and tomb.

Continuing down the line, we can also find a glimpse of Fatih Camii, the mosque of Fatih Sultan Mehmet. When I heard I could see his tomb right here in town, my heart nearly burst out of its chest. I had done so much reading about this man and his impact on the world. Finally I could see him in person, where he rests in his shortcut to Heaven after a long life of battle and bravery. This mosque sits on the site of the Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostles, but upon conquering the city, Fatih ordered most of the churches to be converted into mosques. The senses experienced a transformation. Constantinople’s eyes and ears once used to crosses and churchbells now had to adjust to crescents and minarets, along with the Ezan, or Call to Prayer.  Fatih Camii is my personal favorite mosque, located right next to the Valens Aqueduct, which goes back to Roman times (although we sadly can't see the aqueduct from our balcony).

We need to take a 5 minute bus ride
to catch a glimpse of this epic aqueduct.

After conquering the city, Fatih Sultan Mehmet ordered massive Muslim immigration into the city. No longer was this metropolis a Christian dominated city, now pledged to following the Ottoman state and its Muslim traditions. However, recognizing the substantial population of non-Muslims and non-ethnic Turks practicing other faiths, he ordered the creation of the Millet system, which organized the city into religious communities. While it divided up rights and privileges and clearly favored Muslims, Christians and Jews were allowed to practice their faith openly. They lived in specific neighborhoods, two of which are in perfect view from my apartment: Balat and Fener.

With some friends on the cobblestones,
May 2016

While stumbling around these spots, Eda and I discovered a myriad of churches, as well as a synagogue. One day last year, we were attempting to find Aya Yorgi, the Church of St. George, and asked a man for help. He told us, “There are 23 churches in this neighborhood.” We sauntered around this beacon of religious diversity, walking among headscarves and crosses in peace. This area has become a favorite of mine in town, as I feel the history breathing. The cobblestone streets make it feel like a little Italian village too, as a plus. The antique shops and hip cafes were nice touches as well.

In this neighborhood, you can also find a gem of culture and diversity. While Turkey is a majority Muslim culture, it contains one of the holiest and most important locations in the Christian world: the administrative capital and headquarters of the Greek Orthodox Church, the Church of St. George.

(I didn't take this photo though).

This location in the Greek Orthodox mindset is similar to the Vatican of the Catholic Church. The Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople, Bartholomew I, lives here, and he serves as the spiritual head of this church. There’s a great interview with him at this link here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDWFO1UTMzI), from a 60 Minutes special. It’s so interesting and quite an anomaly, as the capital of a community of millions of Christian believers all over the world is seated in a tiny mark of a massive Muslim country. The first time I came here, with a school group, we walked into an incredible ritual performed and recited by the priests. The site also houses beautiful icons and relics from various saints. What a beautiful privilege it is to see this across from my house, and by a lovely little park on the water too.

One of our first photos together, near the Greek Patriarch,
and across the water from our future home.

Same spot, one year later, May 2016

Continuing on the Greek theme, there’s a noticeable, vintage red castle structure in perfect view from my balcony. It's called the Phanar Greek Orthodox College (Fener Rum Lisesi in Turkish). This school building, built in the late 1800s, is a wonderful piece of the Istanbul skyline that for the longest time I had no idea existed. It appears like a Greek Hogwarts of sorts, and while it follows the Turkish education system, it contains a small group of pupils and is the oldest Greek Orthodox institution in Istanbul.

Resemblance? :)

May 2016

Finally, towards the end of our view, we can see a glimpse of the old city walls. These walls were built by Emperor Theodosius II in the 400s to protect the metropolis from the imminent threat of raid by the feared, infamous tenacity of Attila and his Huns.

The walls on the map of old Constantinople. Our house is
right above where "Golden" is written.

Outside the walls, but these ones are more inland, February 2016

In the words of my friend Kenny, it's one of the most underrated
sites to see.

Overall, we’re lucky to have such an incredible view of old Constantinople right outside our window. We can see the full length it extended, from the peninsula to the city’s boundary marked by the walls. The Greek and Byzantine city survives alongside the transformative changes of the Ottoman conquest, its subsequent 450 years of mosques and sultans, and the modern world’s additions. Istanbul's skyline is so special, and in my opinion is the most unique and diverse out there. 

It’s a dream come true, living in this house with my soul mate, and the panorama on the balcony certainly makes the experience of being an expat history buff and a newlywed that much more enjoyable and interesting.

Resting on the balcony

Sources:

Lonely Planet Istanbul Travel Guide
Midnight at the Pera Palace by Charles King
The Fall of Constantinople by Steven Runciman
Information recalled and noted from university experiences and museum visits

Council of Kadıköy: The Story of Ancient Chalcedon

For my first blogpost in a long while, I'd like to share a little information about how ancient Istanbul came to be, plus focus a little on the ancient roots of my favorite neighborhood in town:

Kadıköy. 

A modern, crowded but cozy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul.  The hippest coffee shops, quality music and art, wonderful and romantic sea side perfect for a Saturday afternoon bike ride....

Be careful with those balloon games, though... 

And as I learned recently, the site of ancient Chalcedon.

Let's take a trip back a couple thousand years.

Chalcedon, right across from Byzantium (Istanbul)

Buried beneath the Starbucks, the ATM machines, the intoxicating smell of döner, and the crowds is the spirit of what was once an old settlement, situated directly across the Bosporus Strait from Byzantium, a pivotal port city of the Ancient Greek and Roman world that in time became Constantinople and eventually Istanbul. Though not visible today, leveled and replaced by the modern world, this exact spot was home to a maritime establishment that, despite its neighbors’ strength, reputation and glory, developed a few claims to fame of its own. 

We'll talk about this in a minute.

Notice how the peninsula juts out and invites you.

Founded just a generation before Byzantium, ancient Chalcedon became a new homeland for the people of an ancient city-state called Megara. Its position on the map, with its fertile lands, gave it prominence, yet at the same time inhibited its potential. It was awkwardly tucked in a position unfavorable for snatching fish or traders’ boats. As I learned from a local and from some researching, ancient visitors and conquerors nicknamed this area the “Land of the Blind,” a name originating from a Persian general. As the folklore goes, the ancient settlers of this site must have been blind if they were seriously willing to make their city here over the much more advantageous tract of land on the other side of the water. Milking an opportunity from the negligence (or perhaps blindness) of the Chalcedonians, ancient settlers of Greek origin unpacked their bags at Byzantium, which in the following years proved to be a good idea, as it developed into a world-renowned trading hub and eventually an economic, political and religious metropolitan powerhouse.

Items from Ancient Chalcedon, Istanbul Archaeological Museum

Statue found in this location,
Istanbul Archaeological
Museum

The geographical location and neighborhood of Chalcedon greatly helped determine its history.  

Over the years, Chalcedon gained its wealth from trade, by levying tolls and enforcing customs regulations. It also was friendly with Byzantium, proven by its shared coins and joint military operations. Chalcedon was even a member of the famous Delian League of Ancient Greece, an elite alliance of Greek city states including Athens and Sparta.  

However, you could consider Chalcedon living in the shadow of its more popular and successful mate across the water, as Byzantium’s peninsula and superior position on the Bosporus gave boats a much easier port to land in.

He won a Game of Thrones.

Additionally, Chalcedon was just south of ancient Chrysopolis (modern Üsküdar, where I live!). Between these spots, in an epic battle, the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great defeated his partner-turned-political adversary Licinius once and for all, cementing his status as the undisputed Emperor of Rome, 323 CE. Little did I know that my backyard was a critical battlefield this whole time. Years after this battle, Constantine declared Byzantium the new capital of the Eastern Roman Empire:  Constantinople, the Second, or “New,” Rome, was christened on 11 May 330.

Regions of Asia Minor in ancient times. Note "Istanbul," which
at the time was Byzantium and, across the water, Chalcedon.
This land area provides a window for travel
between the East and the West, as you can see.

Chalcedon was certainly able to reap benefits of being next to this city. Imagine travelers, merchants and messengers moving by land from the East, which housed powerful and important cities in the region, such as ancient Nicomedia, Antioch, Damascus and Jerusalem. In order to get to Byzantium, the thriving trading capital of the region, they often passed through Chalcedon before sailing over.  For instance, as letters of the Bible were being sent across Asia Minor, the messenger carrying Peter’s first letter most likely hit Chalcedon. The letter itself is addressed to multiple regions in modern Turkey, including Bithynia, the region that contained Chalcedon, Byzantium and Chrysopolis. 

Getting the word out.

Eventually, Chalcedon became a suburb of the Empire’s new capital, what we popularly know as "Constantinople." 

Where I received my Catholic upbringing
and education. Still using the knowledge I
gained here!

Chalcedon is most famous for its religious significance. I first learned about Chalcedon in Middle School; attending a Catholic school, we learned about the numerous councils the early Catholic Church held to discuss matters of faith, as well as identify and condemn heresies. These 7 councils took place in Anatolia (the name for the Asian part of Turkey).

When I came to Istanbul and noticed the word “Chalcedon” in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, as well as the inscription (Turkish name for it) on the streets of my favorite modern neighborhood, my jaw dropped, having no idea that what I learned so long ago in school was literally on, under and around me.

In the central square of modern Kadıköy

Persecution of St. Euphemia in Chalcedon

Of course, the Greek city-states and the succeeding Roman Empire followed polytheistic religions, with many gods and cults. Chalcedon itself had numerous temples dedicated to gods from Apollo to Aphrodite. Once the monotheistic Christianity began spreading throughout the Roman Empire, the Roman state sought to wipe out this threat; for instance, the Roman Emperor Nero notably burned down Rome in 64 CE and blamed the Christians, forcing many to their deaths. Programs of state-sponsored persecution would continue over 200 years into the future. Emperor Diocletian, who notoriously split the Empire into East and West and made a capital in ancient Nicomedia (modern Izmit, Turkey), sponsored a great purge of Christian believers in the early 300s, including the martyrdom of St. Euphemia in Chalcedon. This 15-year-old girl from Chalcedon was tortured on a wheel and fed to the lions because she refused to renounce her faith in Christ. 

Representation of the Edict

Now shortly after Euphemia’s death, but years before founding Constantinople, Emperor Constantine took the throne, defeating political adversaries in modern Italy. Prior to an important battle, he famously had a vision, one of a cross figure, which he forced all of his army to place on their shields. Emerging victorious in the battle, he interpreted his triumph as a sign to defend Christianity, culminating in the 313 Edict of Milan, which legalized Christianity throughout the Empire. When Constantine declared his city in 330, he intended to found it as a Christian city. 

Constantine presenting the city to Christ
and the Virgin Mary, Hagia Sophia

From now on, his new city was the capital of Christianity in the Eastern Roman Empire. Constantine felt both a political and a faith-based responsibility. To take care of internal disputes and theological questions within the Church organization, several councils were called over the course of his reign and beyond, such as the famous Council of Nicaea in 325; this meeting took place in what is now Iznik, Turkey. This council, the first of the ecumenical councils, led to the Nicene Creed.

Why are these facts relevant to Chalcedon, the capital's neighbor across the street?

Gorgeous representation of Christ in the
Chora Church, Istanbul

In 451 CE, over a century after Constantine, another council was called to answer questions regarding the nature of Jesus Christ, the Savior. Though originally intended to be in Nicaea, Christian bishops changed location to a place closer to the Emperor in Constantinople. They went with Chalcedon. The council occurred in a temple once devoted to Aphrodite, now rededicated to the Chalcedonian martyr from before, St. Euphemia.

Another representation of the Council

The council was the 4^th Ecumenical Council, taking place over a month. The major theological issue regarded the nature of Christ. Debating his humanity and his divinity, council leaders came to the conclusion that Christ was fully human and fully Divine; this would be called the Chalcedonian Definition: “Christ is one and the same Christ, Son, Lord, only begotten in two natures, without confusion, without…division, without separation.” Remembering my Catholic school education, this definition was the most important piece of the faith I recall learning. I didn’t realize this dogma was manufactured and confirmed on the land that occupies my home for the last two years.

Furthermore, at this council, the Nicene Creed that we recite today in Catholic masses was prepared here. So if you’ve ever been to a Catholic mass and heard the assembly of the faithful chant in unison, “We believe in one God, the Father, the Almighty,” speech, those very words came directly from ancient Chalcedon, modern Istanbul.

Armenian Church

Chalcedon was eventually destroyed by the Ottomans after their conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Soon after, because it was taken under the wing of courts, the neighborhood became known as “Kadıköy”, as “Kadı” is the word for an Islamic judge in the Ottoman days. Kadıköy also became a neighborhood full of many ethnicities and religious minorities; to this day, one can find multiple churches and even a synagogue. It’s pretty fun to stumble upon Greek, Armenian and Hebrew, plus Arabic and Ottoman Turkish at many mosques, casually on my way to work.  I even catch Latin on occasion. One of the reasons I love this city so much:  so much culture.

Possibly the site of the council, the old cathedral of Chalcedon

Mosque by the water

Synagogue in the neighborhood

Entrance to the Synagogue (Note the Hebrew text above)

In a way, one can still feel Chalcedon’s unique religious significance, now covered and replaced by a hip modern neighborhood.  It certainly blends in with the modern world, from the Burger Kings to the Breaking Bad themed coffee shop. 

Items found from ancient Kadıköy, Istanbul Archaeological Museum 

The Haydarpaşa Train Station, an important terminal for train travel to the Arab World

Nice view of the water at sunset.

I don't expect to find Walter White at a church council anytime soon.

The legacy of Chalcedon remains among us.

Thanks for reading!  

Sources:

Constantine the Great. History Channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deioHlBslEQ (accessed 25 April 2017).

“Council of Chalcedon.” Newadvent.org. http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/03555a.htm. (accessed 29 April 2017).

Istanbul Through the Ages, Istanbul Archeological Museum, Istanbul, Turkey

“The Legend of St. Euphemia.” Inforovinj.com. http://www.inforovinj.com/eng/rovinj/znamenje/legenda-sv-eufemija.asp (accessed 28 April 2017).

Wilson, Mark. “Chalcedon.” In Biblical Turkey: A Guide to the Jewish and Christian Sites of Asia Minor. Pages 370-371. 3^rd Edition. Istanbul:  Zero Prodüksiyon Ltd (Ege Yayinları), 2014.

^^This is a fantastic book on the history of Christian and Jewish sites throughout modern Turkey. It's become a personal bible of mine, and contains a myriad of wonderful information.