Staycation in Old Constantinople

Walls...

For almost four months, I have been working at a reputable private school in central Istanbul. I have been teaching 5^th, 6^th and 7^th grade classes, plus doing an after-school book club once a week and co-leading the middle school Model United Nations activity. It’s been a long and sometimes demanding 4 months, but I’m very thankful for my great experience so far. It’s the first time I’ve ever loved a full-time job.

Fortunately, we were rewarded with a week off. As Eda had to work, I decided to make this week a staycation, an attempt to get some necessary rest and to stroll around this city. It had been years since I last wandered this maze of a metropolis while truly feeling free. During my semester here, it seems that’s all I did. It felt good to take some nice walks, absorb the local history and clear my head. We were blessed with good weather throughout the week, to boot. I wanted to use this blog post to share where I went and what I found around town.

Monday

I started with a classic: Topkapı Palace. This is the old palace of the Ottoman sultan, built on the site of the ancient Byzantine Agora. This is one of my favorite museums in all of Turkey because of its vast collection, from the Ottoman war room to the Sultan’s harem. My favorite section has to be the Arms & Armour section, where you can see an epic display of swords, rifles, chest plates, helmets and weapons of other epic proportions. The best thing to see in here has got to be the sword of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror, in my humble opinion.

Right within the walls of Topkapı, there’s an old Byzantine Church called Hagia Irene. I had never been in there before, so I took a look inside. This was an Ottoman armory for several years, before it became a museum. It’s quite a unique structure both inside and out, and it feels like you’re in an epic historical fiction explorer film when you walk inside.

Tuesday

On Tuesday, I took a 3 minute ferry across the Golden Horn to Balat, an area known in the past to be inhabited by religious minorities. I wrote about Balat in a previous post (see “The New View”). It’s a wonderful area with so many old, picturesque buildings. There are especially many churches, such as this new Bulgarian Orthodox church.

I also felt like poking my head in the Church of Saint George, the home of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate.

The more or less "Pope" of the Greek Orthodox Church lives in this complex.

Instead of taking the ferry back home, I decided to take the scenic route, as the weather in Istanbul is still warm enough to walk during twilight hours. 

After casually walking by some ancient walls (no biggie), I noticed a hospital with some attractive architecture.

Upon further inspection, I saw Hebrew letters written on the entrance. This neighborhood housed a decent sized Jewish population, so this hospital was built as a means for Jewish people in the area to be taken care of. I had no idea this existed until now.

Lastly for this day, I passed by a lovely Orthodox church and another up close view of the old city walls. I can’t get enough of them!

Wednesday

Down the street from where I live, there’s a charming old palace pavilion called the Aynalikavak Kasrı. While this area may have held a Byzantine winery many years ago, it now houses this lovely little Ottoman palace, where the Sultan would relax on the Golden Horn during the Ottoman Empire's peak. 

I have lived right next to this place for many months, but only now had the chance to go. I took a self-guided free complementary audio tour inside the building, seeing where the Sultan used to read and relax. There’s also a small musical instrument museum inside the pavilion, as Sultan Selim III, a great composer and musician, frequently lounged here and played his music here. On the inside, one can find both instruments of Turkish origin as well as imported musical instruments and machines from the USA and France.

Maalem Synagogue

More of Istanbul's hidden Hebrew

I took another nice stroll along the windy waterfront, and eventually made my way to a synagogue right down the street from me. My neighborhood was once an area filled with Jews. 

Meanwhile, I walk by an old Romanian church every day on the hill up to my home. Within a 5 minute radius, I’m able to see Greek, Hebrew and Arabic writing from three houses of worship of different faiths. I consistently say that this is one of the things that makes Istanbul so special: so many cultures and religions all coexisting in the same space.

Thursday

As the end of the week was approaching, I chose to move into some familiar territory: Taksim. I wanted to take some pictures of interesting landmarks in this center of town area. I started with an old Greek Orthodox Church, and eventually moved along in a circle. I managed to find some old architecture, an English chapel converted into a restaurant, the House of the Dervish Order, and even the British consulate.

Galatasaray High School

I find a new consulate in Istanbul almost every day.

The British Consulate

Sunday

Grave of the writer of the Istiklal March,
Turkey's National Anthem

I decided to take a break on Friday and Saturday, but on Sunday, Eda and I chose to find some new places together, like we always do. After going out for breakfast, we made it to an area called Edirnekapı (this means "Edirne Gate", as Edirne (or Adrianople in ancient Greek) is a large city to the west of Istanbul, and was the Ottoman capital before conquest of Constantinople). I hadn’t been to this area yet, but it’s quite special; it’s the spot where Faith Sultan Mehmet (the Conqueror) entered the city after conquering Constantinople in 1453. It was an honor to finally make it to this spot.

From there, we moved through old Byzantine Constantinople. We passed this church and this statue of the man himself. I couldn’t waste this opportunity.

Eda and I eventually made it to a fantastic gem of the Christian faithful in this city: the Church of Saint Savior of Chora. This was an old Byzantine church with some of the most priceless and inspirational mosaics in all of Christendom. Churches throughout the Christian world were modeled after this one, but it was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest. Now, it’s a modest museum, as much of it is under restoration due to damage over the years.

There are so many churches in this area, and we also stumbled upon another old synagogue.

Further down the line, we made it to a Byzantine church called the Pammakaristos Church (Fethiye Camii). I love how it just hangs casually on the streets of this neighborhood. Things in this particular neighborhood get pretty conservative, and you’ll find shops with advertisements and signs in Arabic.

But, it’s nice how they’ve preserved this gem of Byzantine Constantinople despite the changes since its glory days. This church remains one of my favorite hidden secrets in town. It’s only 5 liras, and the inside contains so many beautiful and wondrous works of Christian art. You can see saints and Biblical episodes of Jesus, such as his Baptism. We were alone inside, so it was as if the space belonged to us for the moment.

Church of Mary of the Mongols

Overall, I had a nice little vacation from work. It felt great to walk around the city again on my own time. I found some new places, and revisited the old. This city has certainly changed a ton since I first arrived as an excited and curious student. I have changed with it, and often battle and struggle with its forces at play. But we still hold a tight bond, this city and I. It will never go away, as it has almost become a part of me. It has watched me grow up, and it continues to give me tests each and every day, seeing me at my worst and forcing me to persevere through any and all conflict. And now, as one year finishes and a new year approaches, potentially the last one we start here, Eda and I are completing it strong with a new decoration to punctuate it….

November 10: A Moment with Atatürk

Growing up in the USA, there were quite a few dates in November to remember: Election Day, Veteran’s Day, Thanksgiving, not to mention birthdays of numerous friends. Here in Turkey, they have their own special days scattered across the year, but there’s one day in November that has particular meaning for the Turks. For the comedians out there, NO, it is NOT Thanksgiving. I do enjoy telling my students about Turkey day in the USA, but no...

I mean November 10^th, the day Mustafa Kemal Atatürk passed away. To honor the founder of modern Turkey, the Turkish people participate in a little ritual every year on this day as a sign of respect for his great life and work. For this post, my first in admittedly a while, I would like to finally share a bit of his life story, accomplishments and legacy.

Mustafa Kemal is among the most revered, most important and most beloved figures in Turkish history. Born during the last days of the Ottoman Empire, he grew up to become an amazing leader and icon to millions in his country, and an inspiration to more abroad and beyond his days.

Kemal got his start as a soldier in the Ottoman army, serving time in the Italian-Turkish War, the Balkan Wars, and World War I. His bravery and skill gained him a reputation as a respected and competent officer.

His greatest achievements of heroism came during World War I. An officer rising through the ranks, Kemal showed tremendous prowess leading his army’s battalion at the Battle of Gallipoli in 1915. Attempting to reach Istanbul, depose the Ottoman Empire for good, and send military equipment to Russia, Great Britain deployed troops from New Zealand, Australia and Britain to the Gallipoli Peninsula on the Dardanelles, a narrow waterway linking the Black Sea and Istanbul to the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. It was very close to the mythical site of the city of Troy, but this odyssey would not end well for the Brits.

Gallipoli Beach

At Gallipoli, July 2016

Kemal led his soldiers in defense of their homeland, managing to hold off the invaders for several months and in a hostile winter on a brutal terrain. One of Kemal’s many inspiring quotes came prior to a bayonet siege, in which he said, “I’m not ordering you to assault, but to die…”

Perhaps his most trying moment during the Gallipoli Campaign came during combat, when shrapnel struck him on the chest. If it hadn’t been for a watch in his shirt pocket, he would have been toast. But it miraculously protected him.

His statue at Gallipoli

Kemal truly made his reputation known amongst his soldiers, his superiors and even the enemy. His leadership, strength and resolve carried the Turks to victory, as they were able to successfully halt the invasion. The Brits surrendered and split in January 1916.

A quote of his in reference to the lives of New Zealanders and Australians lost in battle

After the war, Kemal felt the Turks were cheated out of their land. With the Treaty of Sevres, the Allies divided up the Ottoman Empire’s territory between a number of groups, from Greece and Italy to Britain and France. All the new Turkey received was a chunk of land around what is now Ankara, Turkey. Feeling upset and robbed, Kemal and his trusted friends gathered up the support and supplies to resist this treaty’s boundaries, leading to the Turkish War of Independence, from 1920 to 1923.  

Victory resulted in complete control over Anatolia for the Grand National Assembly, the new government of the modern Republic of Turkey. Similar to George Washington in the USA, Kemal’s prowess and leadership skills on the battlefield motivated his teammates to proclaim him the first President.

Kemal certainly had his work cut out for him, inheriting a mostly illiterate country torn apart from a decade of war. However, within just a few years, Kemal implemented several programs to bring the new republic into the modern, secular world. This included traveling all over the country to spread new principles of logic, science, democracy and secularism to the population.

To achieve independence, national homogeneity and a modern civilization, Kemal combined elements of nationalism, republicanism and secularism into Kemalism, the ideology that formed the basis of the government.

What Ottoman Turkish looks like

One of Kemal’s greatest achievements was spearheading the development of the Turkish language. Ottoman Turkish used the Arabic script and was mostly a combination of Arabic and Persian language; the Ottoman court spoke this difficult language, as opposed to the peoples’ Turkish. Kemal decided to standardize the common Turkish language so the people could become politically involved. He also switched the alphabet to the Latin script, a writing system much more useful for people. To this day, this alphabet has 29 letters, from a funky g (ğ) to a squiggly c and s (ç and ş) to vowels with and without dots (ö, ü, and ı). I will say that in the times I write Turkish, it feels really good to successfully use these symbols.

One of his most famous images.

Kemal’s government also added western numbers, the western clock and the Gregorian calendar to the society. Economically, Kemal’s government opened new factories and invested in a nation-wide railroad network as a means to connect the country.

Furthermore, Kemal promoted greater freedoms for women, such as pursuit of education, voting rights, different clothes, and new professional occupations. His own adopted daughter became the first Turkish female fighter pilot. 

Sabiha Gokcen with him

Overall, Kemal turned the country upside down. What was formerly an Ottoman sultanate became a modern national republic. Kemal did his best to drill modernity, feeling it was a necessity to become a legitimate and independent nation-state whose territorial and political integrity would never be compromised again.

His identity card

Kemal is seen as a true hero among the Turkish people. He gave them their country, their language, and their national identity. After the Surname Law was enacted in 1934, making it mandatory for all Turkish citizens to have a Turkish surname, the Grand National Assembly granted Kemal the surname “Atatürk,” which means “Father of the Turks.”

Atatürk died in the Dolmabahçe Palace at 9:05 AM on November 10, 1938, hence why I wrote this blog. For the second straight year, I was able to see something special. Every year, on this day and at the precise time of 9:05 AM, the whole country stops for one minute to honor the passing of this eternal figure, the savior of their nation. Cars cease to move, pedestrians come to a halt, and all of the nation takes a few moments to pay homage to their founding father, the man who sacrificed everything to make his country independent and whole. I was able to see this at school; all of the students, teachers and staff stood in the courtyard, staring at the flag and his bust. Istanbul is a pretty loud city, but for the 60 seconds every year this ritual takes shape, you can hear a pin drop.

From November 10th of this year.

 Atatürk’s name and face are plastered all across the country. You can see his portrait on the streets, in homes and restaurants, on stickers and notebooks, and even his signature appears as a popular tattoo.

Turkish people respect his views on all things, from science to women's rights and proper treatment of children to art. 

His view on flowers, for example.

Atatürk’s effect has not gone unnoticed, and I admire both the work he did, the respect he earned and the reverence shown by all of his children that roam the nation today. His work, character and commitment to his nation has been well received, and even President John F. Kennedy called him "one of the greatest men of this century." Numerous other world leaders throughout Europe and Asia have also expressed similar sentiments, admiring his talent, courage, bravery and ability to inspire. He loved his nation and his people, and he gave all that he could to create the best opportunities and possibilities for them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQPtkbAiRrU - I encourage viewing this speech of his, given on the 10th anniversary of the republic (with English subtitles). He speaks slowly, passionately and with great conviction, as every word carries meaning. His posture is upright, carrying himself strong, serious and composed. You will certainly feel the power of his words, even if you don't understand what he is saying.

"Ne mutlu Türküm diyene!" (How happy is the one who calls himself a Turk)

I’m happy I was finally able to write a blogpost in honor of Atatürk. Of course I’m grateful to him, as the Republic of Turkey is where my wife proudly comes from. I also teach at a school that he personally approved of.

In a town on the coast.

To conclude, below are some of my favorite quotes of his. 

*information was taken from past course notes, museum visits, and the following website link: https://www.biography.com/people/mustafa-kemal-ataturk-20968109.